Thursday, July 9, 2009

A First Look at Fall 09 Couture



The fashion shows I like to cover the most are the couture shows. They are only a few of them each season (so I can look at them all) and are known for their amazing quality and vision. The first two up on Style.com are the Dior and Alexis Mabille collections. Surprisingly, both showcased some innerwear as outerwear. Does that mean the rich and famous will be wearing scandalous lingerie under sheer full skirts for fall?

Dior



I can trust John Galliano to put on an elaborately overdone show with elaborately overdone clothes. His looks always border on the absurd but that’s what makes his show the most fun to watch. This year was no exception.



50’s Satin Jackets with sheer skirts over girdles. What can I say- at least he didn’t give us bulbous alien dresses. The jackets actually stay true to vintage Dior suits and will probably sell well. The sheer petticoats, girdles, and such, seem to be incongruent with the polished suit jackets, but Galliano explains that he was inspired by half dressed mannequins. Oookaay… as long as he doesn’t expect people to go around half dressed. All in all, the collection was very lady like, from the jackets, to the handbag, to the leather gloves. More evidence of the Michelle Obama effect!



I'm crazy in love with these mulberry leather gloves. For me, the items that shone the most were the gorgeous, gorgeous, corset dresses.



WTF-ness: 6 (mostly from the girdles)


Alexis Mabille

Mabille said he was inspired by a young woman just getting out off bed. When I see his collection, I can believe it, but isn’t it just an excuse to drape window treatment on models?



Okay that was a little mean, but this collection felt too casual and summery to be appropriate for Fall/Winter couture. I understand designers want to break the boundaries that define couture, but it really didn’t showcase his skill- so why would anyone buy it? Not to say I disliked the collection, but there are very few value pieces that I feel people would be willing to fork over their money for (those few pieces being the snazzy white suit and sheer dress).


Collection favorites


Still it’s not a bad concept, especially if done for a spring couture show. It’s light and romantic and reminds me of a music video I really enjoyed called 'Her Morning Elegance' by Oren Lavie. I highly recommend you watch it below. The song is charming but the film's concept and direction are what made the video memorable.



The film sums up what I thought Mabille was missing in his showing on Monday. Like the song, the look he created was sweet and charming, but forgettable. However, the video applied a cool stop action technique that really wowed me. Mabille should have done the same for his clothes, use technique and details to blow fashion critics away.

Reaction: meh!

Source: Style.com, NyMag.com
Definitely skim those sites for better images- the blogger window is way too tiny!

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