Breakout Designers Shine for NY Fall 09 Fashion Week

There's definitely a different atmosphere this year at New York Fashion Week. Everyone's grumbling over the recession and how designers are scaling back their shows and parties. While the big designers are trying to combat shrinking wallets by going for classics and cutting costs, the unknown designers are pulling all the stops to make their collection stand out in a difficult time for the fashion industry. Not to say the major designers didn't have a great showing, but for me, the smaller designers were the ones that really shined.

For example, Frank Tell's collection blew me away. I'm going to let the collection speak for itself.






With its fairly muted palette of black and white, the collection really focused on details and structure. The clothes manage to be both sweet/flirty and hard/edgy. As a personal preference, I love that juxtaposition. The knitwear is fantastic as well.




Another collection I really enjoyed was that of ChoCheng's. Named one of the top five Chinese designers to watch, the Hong Kong based designer has produced a collection of tailored blazers and coats. Although the collection is not on the cutting edge of fashion, it does have jackets that any girl would be happy to own. I am particularly eyeing the sky-blue winter coat which would make any winter outfit look fantastic. I did feel that the evening gowns were a much weaker showing. The last gown billowed out like it was made for maternity wear.










I am a recent fan of Bensoni so I was ecstatic that NY Mag covered their Fall 2009 show. Their clothes have a quirky lady-like sophistication, similar to that of soon-to-be-closing Mayle, that I adore. I admit there are both hits and misses but the odd pairing of different patterns and texture is what makes this clothing line fun and lovable. Nothing is super matchy-matchy.






Finally, I have to show love to the winner of Project Runway 5, Leanne Marshall. She staged a 9-looks presentation, with only 3 weeks preparation! She showcased more structural draping rather than just ruffles and pleats this time. The long column gowns are drop dead gorgeous. I also loved the grey coat and actually wish she made more winter coats in the collection. Leanne really set a high standard at the Project Runway finale that she doesn't quite meet this time around but that's reasonable considering she did the entire thing in three weeks.